Paeans resound for James Laird and Nancy Sheridan Laird’s “serene oasis” in Chatham, where the “exceptional” French cuisine with a locally grown bent is “smart and sexy” and the ambiance “refined” – though you may need “a chest of gold bullion to settle the bill”; some say the “excellent” staff’s occasional “haughty” attitude can strike a flat note, but they’re drowned out by the chorus of devotees singing “top shelf in every way”; N.B. jacket suggested.
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